Thursday, April 28, 2011

Finale - Longest Leg 4/26

Did not get a chance to post that evening after returning home. Tuesday, 4/26 was a long day of travel then boat clean up. We also left the next day for MN so needed to give the house a once over from being gone for two weeks then ready it again for another six day absence. After a couple loads of laundry later and a quick nights sleep, we're off again. Sitting in the MN living room, watching the flurries is a perfect time to finish up the last days notes and reflect on a memorable trip.

Our dock neighbor is making the same run, from Key West to Ft. Myers, today and wants to get an early start. He tells David that he'll be shoving off at 6:30 so we know his engines will be our alarm clock. We're hoping to head out about 8:00 so this should give us enough time to prepare for and on time departure. We blast off five minutes ahead of schedule.

Heading out on the north side of the island there are numerous shallow areas so one must be careful not to deviate from the channel, which is marked quite well. Once past this zone, which takes us about 30 minutes to clear, David can bring the boat up to 25 to 29 mph. This leg is 120 miles and should take us about 5 hours. Up to this point we have only gone less than half that distance in a day so this will be our longest by far.

We travel due north, with the wind and waves from the south south east. As we get into more open water, the ride becomes a bit rougher but not too bad. At one point, we are 50 miles from any land. Before leaving Key West, the raft is inflated and emergency items are assembled, should we experience the worst case scenario of a sinking boat out in the middle of nowhere. Not something I like to think about but being prepared helps ease the angst a bit.

At the point where we get closer back to land, David states that the water should start to get calmer. About 12 seconds later, a giant wave crashes over the bow and drenches us. It's like Mother Nature said, "Uh...not so fast..." So much for the calmer water. Time to zip up the front window.

With the Eisenglass window zipped, it's harder to see. That would normally not be a problem because the water is quite deep, 50+ feet, and the weather is good. There are, however, crap/lobster buoys scattered along our route that could cause problems to the prop and engine should we hit them so David & I keep a vigilant eye out for those obstacles. I end up standing so I can see above the middle portion of the windshield, which allows for a better view.

The easiest markers to spot are the white ones but there are also yellow, orange, red and black ones. The black and orange ones are the most difficult to see and a couple of them seemed to come out of nowhere at the last second. At one point, I spotted what I thought was an orange buoy but as we passed by closely, it turned out to be the first of three turtle sightings.

Finally, we see the building silhouettes of Marco Island appear on the eastern horizon. Land Hoe! Soon we'll be back in familiar waters. As we approach the Sanibel Bridge, David decides to stop at Tarpon Point to fill up the gas tanks and do the math on the fuel burn. After the gas dock, we have about another hour before arriving back home.

After two weeks of living and traveling on the boat, we are back at our house in Cape Coral. Time to clean the boat and get ready to leave for MN in the morning.

What a great trip! I honestly did not think it was going to be such a fun and gratifying experience. There were a few problems along the way but nothing that couldn't be handled and only added to the adventure.



Monday, April 25, 2011

Last day in Key West

This morning was kind of lazy. Woke up, made some coffee and went out on the deck to do some e-mail and Facebook. Nice breeze blowing and the temp was very comfortable. Felt like about 80. Didn't really get moving until about 10:00. It rained at 5:00am for just a couple of minutes but that was enough to wet the carpet. Cleaned up the galley a bit. Bought a mask and snorkel, to go with the other one already on board, in case we decided to go out on our own to do that so thought today would be a good day. Also planned on filling up the gas tanks and getting the potty tank pumped out, so we will be ready to launch early the next morning, back home to Cape Coral.

We go out just off Flemming Island and anchor. The water is relatively calm so snorkeling might be OK. I try to snorkel but my mask will not seal no matter how much I tighten it. The water is a little murky so I'm less that enthusiastic about switching masks and trying to make it all work, plus the water is a tad chilly. I decide to watch David snorkel. He lasts a little longer than I did, as there is not that much to see due to the obscured viewing.

Time to motor back and do the gas/pump out thing then back to our dock. The return docking goes well. We are pleased with our coordinated effort. Now we have to get things packed up so there's nothing to do in the morning. We also have to return the laundry card and check out of the dock. As we approach the dock masters office, the dock master is locking the door. He was off to help some arrivals and encouraged us to check out at 5:00 in the morning. We told him we'd like to avoid that and would really appreciate it if he could check us out when he was done dealing with the business at hand. He said he would.

The people two boats down from us highly recommended that we do dinner at Latitudes, on Sunset Island. I try calling the reservation line but it is busy so I bike over to the office to communicate in person. The agent I speak to says the only available times are 5:45 or 8:15. If we want to eat during sunset, we have to book 4 weeks in advance. Since sunset is at 7:53, we decide to book the 8:15 spot. We'll take an earlier ferry over to the island and wait at the bar while watching the sunset.

Since we will not eat until at least 8:30, we decide to do happy hour at Alonzo's for the last time. The same bartender is there from the past two evenings so she knows what we want. My last Key Lime Martini and fish fingers. After our snack, I decide to take a shower and get ready for dinner while David waits for the dock master. We are checked out and free to go whenever.

We walk about 8 minutes to the ferry dock and realize that the tickets are back on the boat. Back to the boat to retrieve the tickets. We pass the third place selling chocolate covered Key Lime Pie on a stick and decide I HAVE to have one. Since we are going back to the boat anyway, I can put it in the freezer for later.

Even after the ticket dress rehearsal, we arrive at the ferry dock in plenty of time. When the boat pulls up, we get on and are excited to find and air conditioned cabin. At this point, we are a little warm and are greatful for some relief from the heat. The short boat ride takes us to Sunset Island and it's about 25 minutes before sunset.

We check in at the hostess station and she has no record of our reservation. I tell the person that we gave our ticket to the boat guy but she seems unconcerned. She states that we are the second people today this has happened to. This does not make us feel better. The hostess says this is no problem so we go to the bar, as planned to watch the sunset and wait for our table.

We are summoned by the hostess to follow her to our table. It is located on the edge of the patio, just before the completely outdoor part. It's really lovely, with the tiki torches flickering but our section is a bit warm. I can see there is a breeze further out there but we can feel none of it. I order a glass of ice water immediately, as does David. For dinner, I order a grouper dish and David get a Mahi. Both are excellent but too much food for me so I take the leftovers back to the boat.

Latitudes was a great experience and I'm glad we were able to fit it in to our last day. Time to sleep fast and head out early.



Sunday, April 24, 2011

Easter in Key West

Thought we would be leaving for Marathon today but decided to stay in Key West until Tuesday. The plan was to stay in Marathon Sunday night, head to Marco the next day then back home to Cape Coral on Tuesday. After talking to several boaters, David has decided that we can go from Key West to home in one day. The seas are due to be calmer on Tuesday so rather than head out in rough seas today, we'll just stay in Key West, wait for better winds and head out for a long leg on Tuesday.

Decide to hit some museums today so our first stop is the Little White House, named so because President Truman spent a lot of time there during his administration. Other presidents have stayed here but none as much as Truman.

Our next stop was the Key West Cemetery. I spotted a head stone with my birth date on it so took a picture. Also found a Watson site where the person buried there had been an aviation cadet. Was only 20 when he died. Thought that was interesting.

After the cemetery, we headed toward the Custom House. It's a combination art gallery and museum. The museum has exhibits about Ernest Hemingway and other local history.

On the way back to the boat, we visit the Key West Winery. I sample some tropical wines and buy an orange chocolate blend. Get back home just in time for happy hour at Alonzo's. Today is Easter and the bar is noticeably less crowded. We are able to get a seat at the bar and chat with a couple from Michigan. They recommend Kelly's Caribbean Grill. It is suppose to be the birthplace of Pan Am. After a nice visit, it's back to the boat to get ready for dinner.

Kelly's isn't too far so we opt to walk. The patio area is lovely, with lots of plants and lights. The hostess wants to seat us in the corner by a large fan. When we express concern about the wind emanating from the fan, she suggests a table right across from it. We sit there but David is starring at a blank wall so we ask the wait-person if we can move to one of the other four empty tables for two. He says he has to check with the hostess and we are granted permission to move.

We order an appetizer of tuna. The dish looks great but the wasabe is drizzled all over it and is too hot for David's taste. For the entree, I order the pork dish and David has a fish dish. Mine was just OK. The pork was a little dry even though the menu said it was marinated in rum & brown sugar. The veggies were good, especially the grilled tomato. David said his dish was very good. The Pan Am memorabilia was located in the bar, mostly pictures on the wall. The wait staff all have Pan Am insignia on their shirt sleeves.

Back at the boat, our dock neighbors call us over for some socializing. One more glass of wine then off to bed. Really fun day!

Saturday, April 23, 2011

Another great day!

Have booked a snorkeling trip for 2:00 this afternoon. We're told to show up no later than 1:00 so we plan our day. The snorkeling place is 2.5 miles from us so we will bike there and decide to leave our boat at noon in order to leave enough time for any unexpected complications. David & I think we should eat around 11:00 so we can be done with lunch, bike out to Dive Key West and get checked in.

We decide to have lunch at the Bagatelle, right on Duval Street. They serve breakfast all day so I get a crab Benedict, that was heavenly. The place is very tropical, no AC, but very pleasant and comfortable. Service was good, as well. Time to bike back and get ready for the snorkel trip.

I call to see if we need to bring anything and the guy on the other end of the call tells me that we may want to cancel because there are high winds. We know what that's about and so decide to cancel. This decision frees up our afternoon so now what to do?

Let's go to the hardware store! We hop on our bikes and ride the 2 miles to Ace Hardware to get a few things. A woman in the store approaches me and asks if I can use a 50% off coupon. It's only good today and for one item up to $30. I say that, yes, I can use it to buy a door mat for the boat. The mat is $25 and I thought that was too much but with the coupon, it's doable.

Next we pedal to West Marine for a boat brush, then to the dive shop for a mask & snorkel, in case we decide to go snorkeling on our own.

We have now been on the boat for 10 days so, with no real plans for this afternoon, I decide to do some laundry. There's enough for one full load which works out great. I go to the dock master's office to find out where the laundry is. Am given an electronic key to let me into the laundry facility, which also includes the showers & bathrooms. Am also charged $25 for the key, which will be deleted upon its return.

While waiting for the laundry to launder, I catch some rays on the bow and listen to the sounds of the marina. I'm feeling very lucky. David & I finish up our chores just in time for happy hour. Do I detect a theme here? As we enjoy the "hour", it's decided that we'll take in the sunset on the seventh floor of the La Concha Hotel. Shoot for getting there at 7:00 in order to get a good viewing place.

When we arrive, there are already lots of sunset celebrants. There is a bar inside the patio and a guitar player performing Jimmy Buffet's repertoire outside. Very much a party atmosphere. The main rail viewing area is already completely occupied but we go around the corner and the view is just as wonderful so we stake our claim. While waiting for the sun event, we meet a couple from New York and a couple from Minnesota. As is customary, we exchange info of our favorite things i.e. restaurants and things to do. After another beautiful sunset, we head off to Camille's for dinner on the bikes.

This place was recommended by two people and written up as being a very good choice, especially for breakfast, but we are doing dinner. The hostess greets us with a big smile and bubbly personality. David & I notice that is is quite warm and are wondering if it will be too hot. As we get our drinks we feel the AC kick in and feel better about the temp issue. A few minutes later, we notice a guy messing with the thermostat and continue to feel some cool so I guess we weren't the only ones feeling the heat.

Looking at the menu, everything looks really good but the lamb chops sound particularly appealing. I never thought I would order anything but fish here in Key West but I just couldn't resist. David decides to order the same. We were not disappointed and David feels like this is the best meal we've had so far, which is saying alot. This place also has a great wine selection available by the glass. I heard that the Key Lime Pie is the best but resist the urge. Perhaps another time.

Time to bike home, in the dark. We have our flashing lights so are not too worried that we won't be seen. Make it back to the boat without incident, for which I am grateful. A little blogging then off to bed.

Friday, April 22, 2011

Crisis Management

I wake up to find that David needs to FedEx his expired ID to the company before they will send him a current one. He needs to have that for his next trip so this morning, that is job one. The only FedEx office is at the airport so that's where we're headed ASAP.

The airport is about 3 miles from the boat but we have our bikes so figure that's no big deal. The big deal is that we encounter 15 to 20 mph headwinds that we are biking against. The good news is that the trip back will be a lot easier, with the wind at our backs.

Our route takes us along the sound side of Key West, right along the beach, which is awesome. After mailing the ID, we start to head back but wonder if there's anything out here that we'd like to see. It's doubtful we'll make it back out this far. Right by the airport is an old fort that was built during the Civil War so we decide to see what that's about.

The Fort East Martello Museum has an eclectic collection of exhibits that illustrate the Keys' interesting history including sponging, Cuban influence, presidential visits and cigar making. In a glass case, there is a supposedly haunted doll. It is the ugliest doll I've ever seen and quite frankly, gave me the creeps. Not because of it's purported supernatural quality, but because this was actually a kid's doll that someone deemed appropriate for a child.

As the story goes, the little boy who's doll it was, blamed all his bad behavior on the doll, whom he named Robert. Now Robert manifests all the mischief & trouble created by the child. Allegedly, if one takes Robert's picture without his permission, he will cause you to have bad luck, in addition to ruining the picture and perhaps even all the pictures taken by the photographer. I didn't try it because, as I said, the doll creeps me out.

The museum attendant was very knowledgeable and friendly. For the $7 admission ($6 if you are a AAA member), the visit was an unexpected delight and well worth the price. We also got a restaurant recommendation from the attendant, as we realized how hungry we were after the museum visit. Off to Salute.

The restaurant is right on Hibbs Beach with a volley ball net directly in back. The place was packed, with a wait time of 15 minutes for a table. We sit at the bar and order a drink to pass the time. Meet a local realtor who give us some more restaurant/bar tips.

The hostess calls our name but by the time David gets to the podium to say we're there, she disappears, off busing tables. When she comes back, we're told it will be a couple more minutes. OK. So we wait a couple more minutes. The hostess calls us yet again and points us to a table outside, in the direct sun. When we get to it, there is someone already sitting there so we wait some more. When David points out the several tables that seem to be unoccupied, the hostess replies that she needs to put someone else there. We are finally given a table out back, with a lovely view, but in the mid-day sun. It's not so bad because there is a palm tree that helps diffuse the heat along with a lovely breeze. David & I are hoping the rest of the staff is not quite as surly.

Fortunately, that is the case. Our wait person could not be more friendly or accommodating and the food was fabulous! I would have no trouble recommending this place.

As we eat, we discuss what to do next. The answer is either a Jet Ski Tour or snorkeling. The jet ski place has a tour going out at 4:00 so we sign up to do that. We're having way too much fun so decide to stay another day and book a snorkeling trip for tomorrow.

Check in time for the jet ski trip is 3:30. The office is at the end of Duval Street, about a five minute bike ride but we have to stop and get a glasses lariat (the thingy that holds glasses to your head so they won't blow off). I check us in at the desk and ask if David & I can ride on the same jet ski. The guy says of course. Most couples do that and it's no problem. Says they have a higher powered ski for us. I tell him that if we're going to be a drag on the group then I will get my own ski but he insists it won't be a problem. As we're waiting for launch time, I overhear a conversation with another customer. He states that he had requested the higher powered ski and was told he would get it.

Our guide assembles the group together and instructs us to don our life jackets. We then are to line up and listen to a brief spiel on safety and jet ski operation. When it's time to assign us our ski, the aforementioned guy says he is supposed to get the high powered ski. The guide is a tad irritated and tells the guy that that ski is for couples and whoever told him that he could have it was giving away something that wasn't his, but in the end, the guide gives in. As everyone else is boarding their skis, David & I are taken by boat to another dock area where there are supposedly newer skis with better power.

The group makes an initial run to determine who can keep up. We are given the position of third from the end. At this assembly, we are also told that to make for a smoother ride, the single riders may want to stand up on the ski and use ones knees as a shock absorber. Having not jet skied in many years I don't see David & I trying to stand up together, going 35mph while maintaining control over this ski so, we get maximum bounce.

The tour is basically blasting around the island of Key West in and hour and a half, with stops at three points of interest: the submarine pits, a sand bar and the southern most point. There was one run that was pretty smooth but the south side of the island was the roughest and really beat us up. At the end of the trip the guide asks if we had a good time. I couldn't lie and told him it was too rough. David felt the same. If I ever do this again, I will ride on my own ski. Otherwise, forget it.

After our jet ski adventure, we head to Alonzo's for the tail end of happy hour. We decide to eat dinner at the restaurant above, the A&B Lobster House. David goes upstairs to make reservations and gets us a table on the balcony, overlooking the marina. Back to the boat to get cleaned up for dinner.

Our reservations are for 8:00 and we are seated right away upon our arrival. People without reservations are told it's an hour wait. Our table is located as promised, with a lovely breeze adding to the ambiance. We've been told that this place had the best lobster so that's what we order. It is wonderful but too much food for me so I take the rest back to the boat, for a future lunch. Not a place we would eat often as it is quite expensive but the food and view were wonderful and made for a memorable experience.

After our great meal, we walk around the marina dock then head back to Berlin's Cigar & Cocktail Bar, located in an adjacent room to the A&B Lobster House. The place has a very cozy, comfy feel and is furnished with dark brown leather couches and chairs. We settle in on one of the couches, enjoying a night cap and each others' company. All in all, a pretty great day.








Thursday, April 21, 2011

Key West Express

Off the dock by 9:30. David was thinking we would go to Key West via the north side of the keys, as it is more protected water, but when we emerge into open water, the south, Atlantic, side doesn't look too rough so we opt for that route as it is about 20 miles shorter. Although not as smooth as we had hoped, the Atlantic route is tolerable and saves us a lot of time and miles. We arrive at Key West at 11:30, which is pretty good time. This is the earliest we've ever gotten to a destination on this trip.
We have a reservation at A&B Marina. The dock master wants to give us a spot on the end by the fuel dock. Thankfully, David asks for another spot in a slip further up the dock, which we are granted and it turns out, is right by the restaurant. Love that!

After getting settled, we are hungry and do lunch at Alonzo's, which is right by the dock. What a great lunch! I had a salad with crab meat, avocado & corn salsa. David had a grouper BLT. After lunch, we get the bikes out and go for a ride.
Riding around Key West is a bit challenging but very fun. We go all the way down Duval Street to the other side of town & back. Get some Key West Aloe, which we can normally only acquire by ordering online. The light bulbs in the bathroom went bad so we found a Radio Shack that carries the replacement ones.
Went to the seventh floor of the La Concha hotel to get a great view of the city. Will probably come back tomorrow to do sunset. Tonight, we plan on Mallory Square for that event, as it is the most popular place to gather. Before that we want to experience the happy hour at Alonzo's, as we hear it's the best deal on the island.

Happy hour at Alonzo's lives up to it's hype. Everything on the left side of the menu, which is a lot of choices, is half price as well as all the drinks. We order a sample platter of onion rings, conch fritters, fish fingers and spicy shrimp, along with a Key Lime Martini for me and a Mojito for David. The martini is almost as good as the one my niece made me ;-) which is pretty darn fabulous. We chat with a couple next to us, who give us a several restaurant recommendations. Now it's time to head out for sunset celebration.
An hour before the official sunset, Mallory Square hosts various flavors of street performers, food vendors and drink carts, so when we arrive about 50 minutes prior, the crowd is quite large and the best sunset viewing spots are already taken.
The Westin Hotel is right there and has a drink cart specializing in Mojitos, but you can get just about anything. Fashioned out of an old Model A truck, the back part has been converted to a bar, manned by "The Mojito Man". The line is long but "Mojito Man" takes care of us all quickly and cheerfully. In reality, there's nothing else to do. We're waiting for the sun to disappear, for goodness sakes, so let's just chill!

David & I find a piece of railing that has not been claimed. It is located right by a 165' yacht named the Norwegian Princess. While waiting for the sun event, we drink our Mojitos and chitty chat with the yacht's mates, three young, tan, beer drinking guys. Finally, the moment arrives, pictures are snapped, the sun sets, people clap, and the mob disappears as quickly as it formed. On to the next party.

Back to the boat to get cleaned up. The bars stay open 'til 4:00am so we think we have plenty of time to get food. Little do we know but soon realize, that there are only a handful of places that serve food after 10:00, which is what time it is when we're finally ready to eat again. A helpful bartender gives us the name of two places so we head to the closest one.

The Island Dog looks promising. We're seated at a table outside by the road so people watching is good. A keyboard player is singing a Billy Joel tune, which is also nice. All of a sudden, the decibel level increases to the point where we have to move or leave. David notices a place across the street and goes to scope it out. They are serving food for 10 more minutes so we skedaddle over there where we can hear Billy at a more reasonable level. Can't remember the name of this place but will find out. Very friendly & helpful wait person and the food is decent. This place is doing Karaoke tonight and there are, from what I can tell, only four people taking turns singing badly. I have to say it is quite entertaining, though and kinda fun. What a great day!




Wednesday, April 20, 2011

Marathon

The leg from Key Largo to Key West is about 100 miles so it was deemed too long to do that in one day. Marathon is right in the middle so that's the planned overnight for Thursday, 4/20.

For about ten miles, the route takes us on the Atlantic side of the Keys. The wind is maxing at 25 mph so there are some waves to deal with. We get a little beat up until the cut through Tavernier then things mellow out a bit. Rather smooth cruising from that point on with the exception of crab fields, in the form of marker floats that are everywhere, even in the channel.

Decide to stay at Marathon Marina. Debbie greets us and is the epitome of southern hospitality with a tan. We get docked and decide the boat is way too crusty. A good scrubbing is in order so David washes the exterior and I wipe down the interior. Feels a lot better without the salt particles!

I've done an internet search for a place to eat and found two. I call one and they close at 4:00 so we opt for the second choice. As we approach the restaurant David says, "I heard this place is a shit hole." we see it, in fact, is, so we go for option 3, Lazy Days right by the marina.

This place was recommended by Debbie, the dock person. As it turns out, they have a happy hour and there is 10 minutes left, so we partake. It is out side and very hot so we order drinks and an appetizer but plan on dinner in the AC.

Inside, we order two great entrees: Lobster Athena and Yellow Tail Gus. Both were fabulous! Would highly recommend this place. We plan on dining here on our return leg back from Key West. We get to see the sunset from the restaurant, then return to the marina.



Back to the boat for some surfing and a glass of wine. The stars are incredible! Looking forward to arriving in Key West on Thursday. Cheers!